We were all in bed last night by 7:30, but the adjustment to Italian time is still underway. Everyone woke at midnight; Gillian couldn’t get over how loud and bright the city was at night and was convinced it must be time to get up. Around 3 everyone finally got back to sleep. I awoke suddenly and checked my watch and was horrified to realize it was 9:10 AM!
We had pre-arranged with Colleen (who owns L’Antica Vetreria) that we would be picked up in Chuisi on a train leaving Rome at 10:36. I hit all the lights and dragged everyone out of bed and send them toward the breakfast room while I hurriedly packed our bags and backpacks. I had just sat down to a cappuccino when I heard “I don’t feel so good” and Holly got sick. Ward took her back to the room to clean up while Gillian and I took care of the table.
We checked out and dashed to the train station dragging the girls and our luggage. It was perhaps a 10-minute walk, but at 10AM it was already 86 degrees, and it was a struggle for the girls. We made it to the train with minutes to spare. Thankfully we got first-class tickets, which gave us an air-conditioned compartment. It seemed that Holly’s illness was not the result of too much breakfast, as she continued getting sick en route to Tuscany.
We arrived and waited for our ride. When some time had passed and the car had not come, we called Colleen who immediately said she would come and get us.
L’Antica Vetreria was familiar from the pictures, but the space, the views; everything was so much more amazing. We pulled up along the pool and facing our apartment. Colleen showed us all around her converted 12th Century glass factory, including the unoccupied units. The attention to detail that she and Tom have shown in the restoration is phenomenal. Full pictures from during the building and of the finished units are on their web site. From the start we found her to be a charming and gracious lady, and a welcoming host. She promised to take us around town when everything re-opened after siesta at 5:00.
I was pleasantly surprised to discover that there were ample pantry staples including olive oil, balsamico, salt pepper, sugar, honey and coffee. There was soap and dishwasher detergent, paper towels and even 2 bottles of unopened mineral water. We have stayed in so many places where the landlords strip the house between tenants that this was a real treat. I made a shopping list to get us through until Monday.
Holly was still under the weather, but both girls were dying to get into the pool. So they changed into swimsuits and jumped in. The change in Holly was immediate; she was revived!
At five we were dried and dressed to shop for groceries and meet the townspeople. We met the ladies of the village who sit outside and keep track of the comings and goings of Piegaro. We met Lila, who will be a key friend of the girls because she works in the caffé, where they have gelato! We met Rosa & Michele, who have the butcher shop, and Matteo the grocer across the street. Ward and I had two bags to bring back and stock the fridge!
I make orecchiette with sausage from the butcher and a little shallot, white wine and pecorino cheese for dinner.
Colleen is taking us and our upstairs neighbors tomorrow to the only carbon-neutral winery in Europe.
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